Use an undersize drill bit on your first hole to see what type of fixing you will require, a push fit Rawlplug is best (not an oversize hole).
(1) φ5.5mm Tungsten tip Masonry Drill Bit, this drill bit will only fit SDS Drills, it is a powerful drill, however it is not a
problem if you have a conventional hammer drill it just takes a little longer to drill the holes. See (fig 2) below.
(2) Standard φ5.5mm Tungsten tip Masonry Drill Bit fits conventional drills. Tip: We find it is better to use a φ5.5mm drill bit rather than the recommended φ6mm drill bit with the Red Rawlplug (fig 6). As generally you tend to end up with a slightly oversized hole, the trick is to avoid this; you can always re-drill the holes with the φ6mm drill bit if the holes are too small, once you have drilled the pilot holes. Try to achieve a good push fit with the Rawlplug (fig 6), use (No6 or 8) x 32mm long Prodrive Woodscrews (fig 9,10).
(3) High Speed Twist Drill Bit φ6.0mm HSS. This drill bit would be used for the Fischer Plaster Plug (fig7) i.e. use for plasterboard and hollow fixings. TIP: Tight fit with plaster plug use (No6 or 8) x 32mm long Prodrive Woodscrews (fig 9,10).
(4) High Speed Twist Drill Bit φ3mm HSS. This drill bit would be used if you have a steel lintel. TIP: Use a little oil on the tip of the drill, 3 in 1 or something similar to help lubricate the cutting action and save the tip of the drill, be patient apply firm even pressure, give the drill bit time to cut through the metal too much pressure and the drill bit will snap, release the pressure as it breaks through, it is not the same as cutting masonry do not use the hammer action with HSS Drill Bits. Pre drill the plaster first with masonry drill bit to save the HSS Drill Bit tip. Use Self Tapping Prodrive Screws the length will depend on the distance to the lintel (No 6) Self Tapping Screws 20-32mm long (fig 11,12,13).13 is a No8 Screw and would need a φ4mm drill bit.
(5) Carbide Tipped Drill Bit for drilling tiles φ8mm. TIP: Apply some masking tape to the face of the tile to prevent the drill slipping on the first initial cut, drill a φ8mm hole in the tile only, then change to the φ 5.5mm masonry Drill Bit (fig 2,1) to drill the remainder of the hole. Use Red Rawlplug (fig 6) or Fisher Plaster Plug (fig 7) dependant on your lintel type i.e. concrete, metal or is it hollow? Use the same method as described above for fixings, the φ8mm larger hole in the tile will prevent the tile cracking when the Rawlplug expands with the screws.
(6) Red Standard Rawlplug use 32mm long size (No6 or 8) Prodrive Woodscrews (fig 9 or 10) φ5.5mm Drill Bit (fig1or 2).
(7) Fischer Plaster Plug (LDF) for plasterboard & hollow fixings with gaps of 2.5cm or more between plaster and lintel, use 32mm long, size (No6 or 8) Prodrive Woodscrews (fig 9 or 10) φ6.0mm Drill Bit (fig3). (Remember tight fitting hole).
(8) No6 20mm long Woodscrew Prodrive for Wood and PVC fixings.
(9) No6 32mm long Woodscrew Prodrive use with Red Rawlplug φ5.5mm Drill Bit or Fischer Plaster Plug φ6.0mm Drill Bit.
(10) No8 32mm long Woodscrew Prodrive use with Red Rawlplug φ5.5mm Drill Bit or Fischer Plaster Plug φ6.0mm Drill Bit.
(11) No6 20mm long Pan Head Self-Tapper Prodrive use for PVC & metal fixing, HSS Drill Bit φ3mm.
(12) No6 32mm long Pan Head Self-Tapper Prodrive use for metal fixing, HSS Drill Bit φ3mm.
(13) No8 32mm long Pan Head Self-Tapper Prodrive use for metal fixing, HSS Drill Bit φ4mm.
All fixings drill bits and tools can be purchased at any good tool merchants, B,Q ,or Screwfix.
Please note: The fixings we provide with your blinds may not be suitable for your particular installation; it is not possible to provide all fixings for every situation please use the guides above, to determine the best method and fixings to use, for each blind you are installing.
To fix the blind to the outside of your window recess, measure the blind (B) and the width of your window (A), deduct A from B and divide by two to give you the measurement each side of the window (C) - this is the position your blind will sit between. Mark off how far above the window the blind position will be (D) - we advise 4 cm in the how to measure section.
Start with the controller bracket and offer it up to your marks on the wall. Mark through the hole positions and then drill and fix.
With the controller head and cord pointing down, position the blind into the bracket. Locate the pin end bracket on the opposite end and offer up to your marks on the wall. Mark through the hole positions (keeping the blind level) and drill and fix the pin end bracket.
Remove the plastic end pin from bracket and insert into the end of the roller blind. Now locate the controller end first and ensure the controller head is pointing down. Then slide the roller blind into the pin end bracket, making sure the small lug locates into the recessed hole.
Decide if you are going to face fix, top fix or side fix. We would advise top fix if you have handles, or side fix if you have a small distance between the blind width and the sides of your reveals.
Simply measure the distance of the handles from the window frame and allow an extra 10mm. This will be your measurement from the window frame to the back of your roller blind bracket.
Offer the blind into the recess with the brackets attached to the blind (as described in the outside recess section). Position the blind central to the window and make a note of how much space you have at each end. This will be the distance required when positioning the width of the brackets.
Because the pin slots inside the roller barrel, you have a small amount of sideways movement for your fixings. This may be sufficient to enable you to side fix your blind, but no more than 5mm as there will be too much stress on the pin, which will cause it to break. (You must top fix if the gap is larger than 5mm).
A sidewinder cord offers easy and accurate positioning of the blind. The back of the beaded loop will bring the blind down and the front will raise the blind.
Just wipe clean with soft damp cloth.
Simple precautions to significantly reduce the risk.
Whilst window blinds and window furnishings are not inherently unsafe and many millions are sold every year, there have been instances of injury and child deaths involving accidents with window blind and window furnishings cords and chains. The cleats listed below are offered as an option at the time of placing your order, and will match to your blind type.
In the interest of safety, please keep all pull cords and chains out of the reach of children. Move cots beds and other furniture away from blinds and install safety devices, such as cleats and cord tidies, to limit access to cords. Hanging cords can be a potential risk to children, so the greatest care needs to be taken at all times.
This safety device would be most appropriate for blind types listed below.
This device is secured to an adjacent wall and the cord / chains are held permanently within the device.
If you have requested a child safety cleat with your blind, and for some reason you can not find it please contact us to request a replacement, before fitting your blind.
Screw the hook to an adjacent wall at the height of the bottom of the control cord. Secure the cord into the hook, ensuring that the cord remains taut.
These instructions can also be found within the installation guides provided at time of purchase.
Use of additional safety devices may reduce the risk of strangulation or injury but cannot be considered foolproof. Persons in charge of children and vulnerable people are ultimately responsible for following the safety instructions provided by us the manufacturer.