Use an undersize drill bit on your first hole to see what type of fixing you will require, a push fit Rawlplug is best (not an oversize hole).
(1) φ5.5mm Tungsten tip Masonry Drill Bit, this drill bit will only fit SDS Drills, it is a powerful drill, however it is not a problem if you have a
conventional hammer drill it just takes a little longer to drill the holes. See (fig 2) below.
(2) Standard φ5.5mm Tungsten tip Masonry Drill Bit fits conventional drills.
Tip: We find it is better to use a φ5.5mm drill bit rather than the recommended φ6mm drill bit with the Red Rawlplug (fig 6). As generally you tend to end up with a slightly oversized hole, the trick is to avoid this; you can always re-drill the holes with the φ6mm drill bit if the holes are too small, once you have drilled the pilot holes. Try to achieve a good push fit with the Rawlplug (fig 6), use (No6 or 8) x 32mm long Prodrive Woodscrews (fig 9,10).
(3) High Speed Twist Drill Bit φ6.0mm HSS. This drill bit would be used for the Fischer Plaster Plug (fig7) i.e. use for plasterboard and hollow fixings. TIP: Tight fit with plaster plug use (No6 or 8) x 32mm long Prodrive Woodscrews (fig 9,10).
(4) High Speed Twist Drill Bit φ3mm HSS. This drill bit would be used if you have a steel
lintel. TIP: Use a little oil on the tip of the drill, 3 in 1 or something similar to help lubricate the cutting
action and save the tip of the drill, be patient apply firm even pressure, give the drill bit time to cut
through the metal too much pressure and the drill bit will snap, release the pressure as it breaks through, it is not the same as cutting masonry do not use the hammer action with HSS Drill Bits. Pre drill the plaster first with masonry drill bit to save the HSS Drill Bit tip.
Use Self Tapping Prodrive Screws the length will depend on the distance to the lintel (No 6) Self Tapping
Screws 20-32mm long (fig 11,12,13).13 is a No8 Screw and would need a φ4mm drill bit.
(5) Carbide Tipped Drill Bit for drilling tiles φ8mm. TIP: Apply some masking tape to the face of the tile to prevent the drill slipping on the first initial cut, drill a φ8mm hole in the tile only, then change to the φ5.5mm masonry Drill Bit (fig 2,1) to drill the remainder of the hole. Use Red Rawlplug (fig 6) or Fisher Plaster Plug (fig 7) dependant on your lintel type i.e. concrete, metal or is it hollow? Use the same method as described above for fixings, the φ8mm larger hole in the tile will prevent the tile cracking when the Rawlplug expands with the screws.
(6) Red Standard Rawlplug use 32mm long size (No6 or 8) Prodrive Woodscrews (fig 9 or 10) φ5.5mm Drill Bit (fig1 or 2).
(7) Fischer Plaster Plug (LDF) for plasterboard & hollow fixings with gaps of 2.5cm or more between plaster and lintel, use 32mm long, size (No6 or 8) Prodrive Woodscrews (fig 9 or 10) φ6.0mm Drill Bit (fig3). (Remember tight fitting hole).
(8) No6 20mm long Woodscrew Prodrive for Wood and PVC fixings.
(9) No6 32mm long Woodscrew Prodrive use with Red Rawlplug φ5.5mm Drill Bit or Fischer Plaster Plug φ6.0mm Drill Bit.
(10) No8 32mm long Woodscrew Prodrive use with Red Rawlplug φ5.5mm Drill Bit or Fischer Plaster Plug φ6.0mm Drill Bit.
(11) No6 20mm long Pan Head Self-Tapper Prodrive use for PVC & metal fixing, HSS Drill Bit φ3mm.
(12) No6 32mm long Pan Head Self-Tapper Prodrive use for metal fixing, HSS Drill Bit φ3mm.
(13) No8 32mm long Pan Head Self-Tapper Prodrive use for metal fixing, HSS Drill Bit φ4mm.
All fixings drill bits and tools can be purchased at any good tool merchants, B,Q ,or Screwfix.
Please note: The fixings we provide with your blinds may not be suitable for your particular installation; it is not possible to provide all fixings for every situation please use the guides above, to determine the best method and fixings to use, for each blind you are installing.
If your blind is to be fitted on the outside of your recess, then measure the blind (B) and the width of your window (A), deduct A from B and divide the answer by two to give you the same distance past the window each side (C) - this is the position your brackets will be fitted.
If you followed our advice on measuring your blind, then you will position your blind 4cm above the window (D). Position the box bracket on the wall and mark through the two holes. Ensure the flap is open and you have the right and left hand brackets round the correct way - see inside the bracket for L/R markings.
Depending on how wide your blind is you may have a U bracket supplied - position this bracket midway along the head rail to give a centre support. Wider blinds will have more than one u bracket supplied - space them equally along the head rail making sure that they will not fowl on the ladder cords when fitted.
Now you are ready to locate your blind in the brackets. Remove the plastic end caps, if required, and close down the flaps and click into place.
If you have ordered you blinds as an Exact Measurement your valance will be supplied with returns. These are fitted with the small L shaped brackets and screws provided. To attach the valance, remove the cover strip from the Velcro patches and push the wooden valance into place.
Please note: If the width of your Wooden Blind has been affected by half tiled wall within a recess, or dado rail, phone socket ect, then you will need to top fix your brackets to the width of blind ordered, as the cover valance supplied to attach to the front of the blind headrail will be supplied to the same width of the blind, If you attempt to side fix the brackets the blind may not be supported properly, and the valance will not hide your fixings, it is not possible for us to provide larger valances than the width of the blind ordered.
The brackets should be located directly at both ends of the metal headrail along with the centre support brackets if they are supplied, which is dependent on the blind width.
Decide if you are going to face fix, top fix or side fix your wooden blind.
We would advise side fixing. If you have had to make allowances for a width restriction then top fix the blind.
Fit your blind so when it is raised/lowered it will miss your handles. Measure the depth of your handles from your window frame and add 10mm - this will be the position you will place the back of the box. Mark two holes through the side or through the top if top fixing.
Drill with a 5.5mm masonry bit and fix the brackets, including the centre support bracket if supplied, dependent on the width of your blind. You may have one or more U Brackets supplied. Position this bracket midway along the headrail to give a centre support. Wider blinds will have more than one, space them equally along the headrail making sure that the ladder cords and brackets do not come into contact. Now you are ready to locate your blind in the brackets, you can remove the plastic end caps if required and close and click the flaps.
For the valance, it may be necessary to trim approx 10mm from one end dependant on the width ordered. Use a small Tenon Saw, ensure you cut it square. Remove the covers from the Velcro patches and position and push the valance into place.
When you have released your cord's packaging, you will find one side has two acorns - this will tilt your slats front to back. The single acorn with multiple cords will raise the blind. To lock the blind into position, move the cord across the face of the blind. The reverse will unlock and lower. Always have the slats in the open position before raising and lowering your blind.
Clean with a dry lint-free cloth.
Simple precautions to significantly reduce the risk.
Whilst window blinds and window furnishings are not inherently unsafe and many millions are sold every year, there have been instances of injury and child deaths involving accidents with window blind and window furnishings cords and chains. The cleats listed below are offered as an option at the time of placing your order, and will match to your blind type.
In the interest of safety, please keep all pull cords and chains out of the reach of children. Move cots beds and other furniture away from blinds and install safety devices, such as cleats and cord tidies, to limit access to cords. Hanging cords can be a potential risk to children, so the greatest care needs to be taken at all times.
This safety device would be most appropriate for blind types listed below.
This should be securely fixed to an adjacent wall, out of the reach of children, and the cord/chain secured as shown, after each operation of the blind.
If you have requested a child safety cleat with your blind, and for some reason you can not find it please contact us to request a replacement, before fitting your blind.
Screw the cleat to an adjacent wall at the required height. Wind the cord around the cleat in a secure figure-of-eight.
These instructions can also be found within the installation guides provided at time of purchase.
Use of additional safety devices may reduce the risk of strangulation or injury but cannot be considered foolproof. Persons in charge of children and vulnerable people are ultimately responsible for following the safety instructions provided by us the manufacturer.